New Balance 990: The Complete Buying Guide

The New Balance 990 has been in continuous production since 1982 — making it one of the longest-running sneaker silhouettes in history. Originally priced at $100 (a record at the time), it was positioned as a premium performance runner for serious athletes. Today, it's worn by designers, architects, and anyone who values quality materials over hype.

Here's what you need to know before buying.

The Versions

990v1 (1982)

The original. Grey suede with a pigskin mesh upper and the first ENCAP midsole. Extremely rare today — a deadstock pair in good condition can run $500+. For most buyers, this is a collector's piece rather than a daily driver.

990v3 (2012)

The v3 is the sweet spot for most buyers. It maintains the classic silhouette but with updated materials and a wider width range. The grey colorway (M990GL3) is the definitive reference point.

Current best price:

990v4 (2016)

The v4 introduced a more technical aesthetic with REVlite foam and a slightly sleeker last. Some OG fans prefer the v3's chunkier proportions; others find the v4 more wearable day-to-day.

990v5 (2019)

The most popular version in recent years. Wider toe box, premium pigskin suede, and a cushioning stack that's slightly more plush than its predecessors. The M990WT5 (white) and M990GL5 (grey) are the go-to colorways.

990v6 (2023)

The current production model. Refined geometry, new color options beyond grey and white. The v6 has garnered strong reviews but some purists still prefer the v3 or v5 last.

Made in USA

Every 990 is made in New Balance's factories in Massachusetts and Maine. NB is one of the only major footwear brands that still manufactures domestically at scale. The domestic manufacturing means tighter quality control and slightly higher price points — but the materials and construction quality are notably better than imported product.

Sizing Guide

The 990 series runs true to size for most people. The toe box is roomier than most Nike and Adidas silhouettes. If you're between sizes, go with your normal size. Available widths: B (narrow), D (standard), 2E (wide), 4E (extra wide). Most colorways are offered in multiple widths, which is rare in the market.

Which Version Should You Buy?

| Version | Best for | |---|---| | v3 | Classic silhouette purists, grey-on-grey aesthetic | | v4 | Technical aesthetic, sleeker everyday wear | | v5 | Maximum comfort, wider toe box, most colorways | | v6 | Current production, new colors, modern refinements |

If this is your first 990, start with the v5 in grey or white. It's the most universally flattering version and the most available at retail.

Where to Buy

New Balance's own site (newbalance.com) is the best place to start — they offer the widest size and width selection, and the domestic manufacturing means there's rarely a stock shortage. For colorways that have sold through, StockX and GOAT carry the secondary market.

Use the price comparison above to see current prices across all retailers for the v3 grey.